As the Durga Puja season approaches, an unsettling development threatens to dampen the celebrations in Bengali households. The much-loved Padma hilsa (ilish), a culinary staple during the festive season, may become a rare and expensive treat this year. Following the fall of Sheikh Hasinas government, the new military-backed caretaker administration in Bangladesh has banned the export of hilsa to India, causing a significant shortage ahead of the festival.The ban, which comes into effect just before the grand celebrations in October, is expected to send prices soaring across West Bengal and other Indian states where the fish is highly sought after. Traditionally, Padma hilsa, sourced from the Padma River in Bangladesh, graces Bengali dining tables during Durga Puja, often served alongside khichuri (khichdi) in a feast that has become synonymous with the festival.Why the BanFarida Akhter, an adviser to Bangladeshs Ministry of Fisheries and Livestock, confirmed the ban, stating, We cannot allow ilish to be exported while our own people cannot buy them. With domestic prices of ilish already spiking, the government prioritized the local market, ensuring a steady supply of the prized fish for Bangladeshi consumers.Historically, Bangladesh has had a ban on ilish exports, particularly from 2012 to 2020, over disputes related to the Teesta River water-sharing agreement. However, Sheikh Hasinas administration made exceptions for India during major festivals like Durga Puja. The current ban marks a significant departure from that goodwill gesture, and the military-backed government has shown no signs of continuing the practice.The special appeal of Padma HilsaHilsa, often referred to as the king of fish in Bengali cuisine, holds a special place in the hearts and kitchens of Bengalis on both sides of the India-Bangladesh border. The Padma hilsa, in particular, is renowned for its rich flavor, succulent texture, and thick, juicy flesh, qualities attributed to the unique water conditions of the Padma River. These characteristics set it apart from hilsa varieties found in the Ganga, Hooghly, and Mahanadi rivers, which cannot match the Padma ilishs taste.Beyond West Bengal, the demand for this fish extends to cities like New Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Jharkhand, and Bihar, where Bengalis eagerly seek out the Padma hilsa for celebrations like Durga Puja, Poila Boisakh (Bengali New Year), and Jamai Soshti.Impact on Indian MarketsWith Bangladesh halting its exports, Indian markets will now need to rely on hilsa supplies from alternative sources such as Odisha, Myanmar, and Gujarat. However, these alternatives are unlikely to match the distinct appeal of the Padma hilsa, and prices are expected to rise significantly.
